Monday, December 12, 2011

The god running after

The first frost has encased the world, and fog erases it. Nothing moves. Out of white walls come faces set hard against the cold and expressionless. My favorite willow is frozen now, jagged branches rime-edged, like a waterfall shocked into stillness. Like a nymph is trapped under its bark.

In Ovid’s Metamorphoses, nymphs are always turning into trees. Struck with love, Apollo pursues Daphne. She calls out for help and in answer, roots and branches envelope her. This change forecloses all possibility for further change. Not dead, but also unalive: “her head was confined in a treetop, and all that remained was her beauty.” Beauty untouched by the god or, like a statue, by time.

Gianlorenzo Bernini sculpted these figures in mid-flight, just at the moment of metamorphosis. Apollo, so close to overtaking her, watches as Daphne sprouts buds from her fingertips, the bark beginning to wreathe her waist. His desire is that of the lover on Keats’ Grecian urn – “For ever wilt thou love, and she be fair!” – a desire forever deferred.

When we think of forever, Keats’ ode might seem a natural choice for comparison; freedom from the temporal and its corruptions, an eternity in art. But eternity can also be terror. Not truth in beauty but, as Louise Bogan once wrote, “beauty with a rusted mouth.”*

Bogan rendered another, more terrible mythic transformation in “Medusa.” After glimpsing the Gorgon, the poem’s speaker has turned to stone. The entire surroundings have also frozen: “This is a dead scene forever now. … The water will always fall, and will not fall, / And the tipped bell make no sound.”

The poem ends on a quiet, leaden note:

And I shall stand here like a shadow
Under the great balanced day,
My eyes on the yellow dust, that was lifting in the wind,
And does not drift away.

The world in “Medusa” is a stone world, de-naturalizing even the dust. A live world is one of change. To be human is to see and suffer those changes, again and again.

In his book on the archetypal hero myth, The Hero with a Thousand Faces, Joseph Campbell writes of Daphne as someone who refuses the hero’s “call to adventure.” She would not give herself over to the god, and in that refusal, refused giving herself to life.

Granted, women in Greek mythology who did succumb to the seductive power of gods didn’t necessarily make out any better, seeing as those gods often had vengeful wives who turned nymphs into cows. But I wouldn’t read this myth literally (i.e. if men chase you through a forest, you should just have sex with them), nor does Campbell suggest we do so.

Forces of life are always in pursuit. Maybe “forces of life” is too vague, but I have my own in mind and maybe you do too, and I know they are not beautiful like the god. They make messes and bruises or a general feeling of discomfort. They will not necessarily make you better. They would take hold of you, and in entering you, make you changed.

There is a painting by my mother of Daphne, the nymph’s face just barely visible beneath a pale film and leaves and the emblazoned word,  “Transform.” The word is an imperative. It is not a choice. To revise Rilke: You must change to live.

In the autumn I went to a Rosh Hashanah celebration in the city of Dnipropetrovsk. We went to the Dnipro river. It was wider than I’d thought. The light was a deep autumn light, it cut deep shadows. The wind tore the waves, and the light tore them blue and black. Rolls of bread were passed around and broken. It was the new year. We were to think of our sins in the past year, and the parts of ourselves we wanted to leave behind. I tore the bread into many small, soft pieces for my many sins which have been neither small nor soft. I threw them into the Dnipro and gulls dipped down to eat them. 

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*From “A Tale.” For your interest, you can listen to Bogan read “Medusa,” and poet Mary Kinzie (my former professor!) comment on it, on this podcast. Both of them have great poet voices.

One last thing: Toot toot toot shameless self-promotion! Read my guest post on Tori Dot Gov! It will make you uncomfortable but you'll love it, I promise. Then read all of Tori's posts ever, laugh until you weep, weep until you laugh, set yourself on fire!

Monday, December 5, 2011

Fashion Haiku

Watching the adorable babas hunch around our village in adorably mismatched clothes, I wish I had adequate internet so that I could post pictures here. I envision a kind of Old World Sartorialist in which I’d document their giant nubbly sweaters, the folds of thick stockings around thick folds of ankle, and their shawls’ variegated colors and patterns. Glory to God for dappled things! It reminds me of my college years and my attempts at looking like the bad girl in My So-Called Life, and then I worked for that newspaper sold by homeless people and they sometimes confused me for one of them.

Really, there’s so much incredibly interesting fashion here that I want to show you. I will do so now through haiku.

…

Bright white Apple store,
Flash of florescent pink shawl – 
Baba, you are lost!

…

Tiny babushka!
Floral skirt and plaid shawl float
As you bicycle

…

Poofy blue fur coat
and poofy pink, shoving me!
I drown in pastel

…

Slippered feet shuffle
Beneath pink terrycloth robe,
Cartoon sheep jumping

…

Business in the front.
Are you a hipster lesbian?
Party in the back.
…

Like gentle spring breeze
Floating across your black bra
Spiderwebs of mesh

…

Something I once accidentally said to scantily clad teenaged girls

If I’d dressed like you,
My mom would have like, thrown up
On herself and cried

…

Like Ugolino
The hedgehog gnaws at your skull.
Ah, it’s just your hat!

…

Little girl in bows
Which are all so enormous
And her head, so small

…

You pause from yelling
at cow, bundled-up baba,
To yell on your cell

Thursday, November 24, 2011

A Very Mrs. Ashley's Kidz Clubhaus Thanksgiving

For weeks, Svitlana has been all aflutter about Thanksgiving. A seminar for teachers in our region would take place this same week, and she was determined to parade our kids before them in an array of traditional American pageantry. Whenever she asked me for suggestions, though, the essence of my response was generally, “Durr?”

I’m really bad at this kind of thing. Not that I don’t appreciate whimsy (my friend Jacek and I have written many brilliant children’s songs about animals who are friends). But I tend to see this stuff through a jaundiced, ironic eye. And to truly do a Ukrainian concert well, it requires a full-hearted, totally unironic and open-armed embrace of all things kitsch.

I’ve seen a great many school concerts here, and they typically involve the following:

1. Really enthusiastic singing, often to a tinny recording of Lady Gaga or some Ukrainian pop song. The girls go all out: Dangerously high boots, electric blue eyeshadow, and dresses either skin-tight or enormously floofy and cupcake-shaped. It’s like, if they were any more hyper-feminine, you’d have to slap a plastic Bratz box on them and sell them to American preteens who have no positive female role models.

2. The same goddamn dance where the ninth grade girls wear black catsuits and floaty gauze on their arms like wings and dance in a REALLY creepy way in a circle around a tiny child, who bobs from side to side with arms and eyes lolling as if drunk or possessed. I think this is the only dance they know.

3. Verse recitations by tiny children in lilting, sing-song voices.

4. The insidious machinations of compulsory heterosexuality. Call me paranoid, but I find something disturbing in the frequency of romantic plots in children’s skits. I remember one variation on Little Red Riding Hood in which Red slow-danced with an eyebrow-wagging Wolf. The latter is a 10-year-old named Dima who hits on me regularly. I blame his precocious lasciviousness on these skits’ sexual undertones.

Our concert yesterday was, blessedly, not creepy – in the immortal words of Linus, “Nothing but sincerity as far as the eye can see!” Regarding kitsch, the Thanksgiving children’s pageant is perfect for these people. It’s all Norman Rockwell innocence and nostalgia that would make Howard Zinn, if he were dead, spin in his grave: Happy smallpox-free Indians in warpaint and feathers breaking bread with happy Pilgrims, as other children waddle in enormous turkey/potato/yam costumes. It’s all so vulnerable to ironic humor, I feel bad making fun because it’s just too easy. Especially when these happy Indians and Pilgrims deliver lines in thick Ukrainian accents, such as, “I am potato! Potato is very tasty! Potato was important source of sustenance for Pilgrims.” 

Actually, most of the kids bungled their lines out of nervousness/ not really knowing English at all. One of my favorite pupils, Igor, an impossibly small 10-year-old with giant eyes like a cartoon mouse, just spouted out random nonverbal sounds. The children were to spell out the word “Thanks” and his letter was “K.” The original lines said something about “kith and kin expected soon,” but little Igor just shouted enthusiastically, “KEEP AND KEET AND KOOT AND KOO!!!” He grinned, his mouse-eyes bugging out.

Another favorite of mine, Ira, was The Cranberry, and delivered her lines in that same swinging sing-song voice with which children recite Ukrainian verses, totally heedless of correct emphasis on words or syllables. Still, I was super proud of her! Ira is the best! She and her friends in the fourth grade have begun frequenting my office every day after school. We practice vocabulary and play Hangman and little Radion asks me weird questions like, “Mrs. Ashley, do you smoke?” or, “Mrs. Ashley, are you afraid of zombies?” He asked me the latter while toting a plastic gun. I told him that in the case of zombie apocalypse, he’d have to protect me by shooting zombies in the head. Or burning them. Because zombies are like the Others in Game of Thrones, right? He seemed confused. My Ukrainian zombie vocabulary isn’t very good.

Anyway, this is an example of how Ukraine has made me hate children in the general sense and totally love individual ones to death. I’ve come to think of these fourth graders as Mrs. Ashley’s Kidz Clubhaus. If we were a PBS cartoon, I would wear Miz Frizzle-esque dresses with various verb tenses scattered across them.    

Of course, our pageant featured many musical interludes, several of which featured … ME! Like this ridiculous Ukrainian song. Please watch the video and imagine that the woman in Disney princess dress is yours truly, horseback-riding with macho Cossack companion. The concert also included reprises of my top hits: “The Phantom of the Opera” and “Yesterday.”

I had a lot of fun rehearsing with my colleagues beforehand. They’re just a bunch of gruff middle-aged guys who like to mess around on guitar and pretend to be rock stars, and yell at each other and laugh boomingly. They kept yelling at me to sing louder. “Ashley needs to get drunk! Then she’ll want to sing!” they said and laughed boomingly again.

I’ve always been really embarrassed to sing in front of people. But I figured I would look way more stupid onstage if I sang half-heartedly, like the humiliated old clown in that German movie The Blue Angel. So I pretended that I was a crooning, velvet-voiced chanteuse, and I belted the songs as much as I could. And the teachers in the audience looked totally into it! Some of them sang along, others actually looked moist-eyed.

And I realized this: It doesn’t matter how well you do something, as long as you do it real loud, and with copious enthusiasm. Anyone can make sarcastic jokes. What’s a real challenge is to make an ass of yourself, and look like you’re LOVING IT.

From all of us here at the Clubhaus, sending you moist-eyed, super sincere wishes for a wonderful Thanksgiving!

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

More brushes with the absurd and slightly horrifying

I’ve had a lot of manly experiences this past year, and going to the bannya last month has topped them all. I have always associated bathhouses with masculinity in various intense, sweaty forms, like homosexual decadence, or a bunch of hugely fat and naked Turkish men (or both!). Finally, a couple weeks ago I was granted admittance to the bannya in Kirovograd.

The baths were in a rustic, wood-paneled lodge which private groups can rent out for a few hours at a time. This meant I was alone with my friends and their Ukrainian acquaintances, and didn’t get to see any hot guy-on-guy action.

What happens is this: You lie down in a tiny, dark room where near-100 degree heat emanates from a stove. At first, it feels like your heart is being sat on by the hugely fat Turkish man. You are also naked, except for a felt bell-shaped hat, so you look rather silly as the sweat dribbles down you in fat droplets. You can only stay there for a few minutes at a time, taking breaks to drink tea and re-hydrate. After a few times, the sensation is more relaxing than painful. I felt very focused inside my body, all blood and heart and breath. 

Towards the end, one of the Ukrainian women – a large, sturdy specimen with a cherubic face – soaked leafy branches in hot water. Then she beat us with them. It was not unpleasant in its kinky European way, and I suppose this is what I mean by "manly": Ukraine beats you until you are STRONG and have sweat out your ill humors! 

The following week, I traveled to Kharkiv for the infamous Halloween party. This experience was the bannya’s complete opposite: I did not get naked, and I was very cold. Had my post-bannya feelings of masculinity manifested themselves as physical testicles, they would have shrunk back into me for fear of freezing off.

Let me tell you something about the Kharkiv Halloween party. It’s not supposed to be just any party. It’s supposed to be a sensational, sensual, totally gross explosion of Peace Corps volunteers’ pent-up sexual frustration and rage. I arrived expecting to see people vomiting on the dance floor, banging on the dance floor, starting fights and bleeding on the dance floor, and making general fools of themselves for my voyeuristic enjoyment. Do you know how many body fluids I saw that night? None but my own snot dripping from my icy nostrils. Fail!

The party took place in a dim, frigid, Soviet-era hotel with a particularly Eastern atmosphere of gloom. The toilets either didn’t work or flooded, and the lights were out in my bedroom. At least I had a great costume. I wore a friend’s ridiculously silky, ridiculously leopard-print nightie and a fake beard. A Freudian slip – GET IT? Of course you do, dear reader, because you have a good sense of humor and are not a moron.

Unfortunately, I cannot say the same for some other partygoers, such as a very abrasive young woman I encountered waiting for the elevator. There was only one elevator in this dump, and no one could find the staircase, so you had to wait an awfully long time if you wanted to go anywhere, which meant having to make a lot of conversations I didn’t want to have with other people waiting. The abrasive woman had draped herself with a large piece of paper cut in the shape of a fish, with crossed-out eyes. Accompanying her, a girl dressed as a lobster, and a handsome boy wearing a babushka bag with holes cut for arms and chips packages pasted to it. I realized later that they were dressed as popular Ukrainian snacks sold at bazaars and outside train stations, such as salted fish (although I still see no reason for the lobster). At the time I found her costume confusing, and also sort of sick and violent. “What are you supposed to be – a Flintstone?” she asked, and when I answered, she snapped, “Well – my costume is funnier!” She and the lobster inexplicably started slapping the handsome boy’s babushka bag and they all screeched and laughed, abrasively.

As the night waned, all eyes went hungry with lust. Sexy little pumpkins and sexy little lobsters laughed too loud and orgasmically at men’s jokes. I saw one young woman grab a guy’s hand and practically drag him up to her room like some sort of Dothraki horse lord, starving for coupling. The less desired boys circled the emptying dance floor with clomping steps, unchosen. And I hunkered down for sleep in my coat and mittens, beneath two wool blankets, shivering violently and waiting to die.

Perhaps my tone savors of spinsterly bitterness. But I’m not angry that my desires went unsatisfied, if they ever could be satisfied, so infinite and infinitely insatiable as they are. Rather, I resented these surroundings because they made all desire into something silly.

A good friend once sent me the following quote from Adrienne Rich – it took me until Kharkiv to arrive at it with understanding.

“Desire: yes: the sudden knowledge, like coming out of the flu, that the body is sexual. Walking in the streets with that knowledge. That evening in the plane from Pittsburgh, fantasizing going to meet you. Walking through the airport blazing the energy and joy. But knowing all along that you were not the source of that energy and joy; you were a man, a stranger, a name, a voice on the telephone, a friend; this desire was mine, this energy my energy; it could be used a hundred ways, and going to meet you could be one of them.”

There is no one waiting at the airport for me to meet them, no form for my desire to take. And so it takes all forms, and takes what it needs from them to thrive. I would not call it joyous now, but I know it is mine, and neither its object nor its consummation matter as much as this.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

In defense of forbearance; or, Jane Austen: Not just for tweens anymore

My frosty, spinsterly schoolmarm self has set herself down these past two evenings and churned out a treatise on Jane Austen. I can’t promise it’s excessively diverting, but some of you might find it of interest.

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Once in my high school English class, our teacher asked us all to name our favorite literary characters. I remember one girl, with a fondness for oversized Jackie O sunglasses and who often declared her career ambition to become a senator’s wife, chose Elizabeth Bennett of Pride & Prejudice. The reason was that Elizabeth, despite being rather poor and having an embarrassing family, “gets her MAN!!!” – a statement which sounded, as she expelled it like a bone from her throat, as if it were indeed all-caps, with three exclamation marks. For my high school self, then absorbed in manlier works like that of Hemingway and Henry Miller, this girl’s vapid girly-ness signified everything in literature I wanted to avoid. Her and Austen’s interests seemed the same: to secure a good match. In comparison to bullfights and endless boning, that all seemed like tween stuff. 

It’s taken me eight years to appreciate Jane Austen. That appreciation does not spring from a sudden interest in romance; rather, I begin to understand that Austen isn’t really about romance. The novels may build inevitably toward a marriage, but love and passion themselves are restrained – not only by social constraints, but by her own marvelous tact. This tact is the focus of my exploration here: How does Austen regulate feeling, in what ways is this “masculine” or “feminine,” and what does her tact do?

I’ll begin with this portrait of Austen from one of her acquaintances, who observed that “until Pride and Prejudice showed what a precious gem was hidden in that unbending case, she was no more regarded in society than a poker or firescreen. … The case is very different now: she is still a poker – but a poker of whom everybody is afraid. … A wit, a delineator of character, who does not talk is terrific indeed!”

I can imagine with great pleasure a slight, yet formidable figure, amusing herself by taking mental notes of others’ foibles. The woman who once referred to herself as a “wild Beast” must have been a fierce thing inside, indeed. “Another stupid party last night,” she wrote in her diary. “I cannot anyhow continue to find people agreeable.” I believe W. H. Auden when he professes, “You could not shock her more than she shocks me, / Beside her Joyce seems innocent as grass.”

And yet this was a caged beastliness. Austen “was trained in female reticence, which was designed to cover the springs and manifestations of anger,” as Peter Ackroyd suggests. Of whatever passions of love or rage ignited her, she left little evidence. What we know of her life suggests she’d had a romance or two, which ended quietly and without result.

In her books, the tone is even, sober, distanced so as to be almost disinterested. Despite the enthusiasm of dewy-eyed Twilight fans for Pride & Prejudice, the romantic scenes are few, and tersely or wryly worded. Mr. Darcy, on Elizabeth’s confirmation that she returns his affections at last, “expressed himself on the occasion as sensibly and as warmly as a man violently in love can be supposed to do.” No wild passions, no storms, no running across moors – just level-headedness and wit.

Certain social codes must be obeyed. Elinor, the “sense” to her sister Marianne’s “sensibility,” must politely contribute to trivial conversations with visitors much less intelligent than herself, while her sister moons over Byron, not deigning to feign an interest in etiquette. Elinor is an excellent model for Austen’s own morality and restraint. Her character is capable of deep feeling, but when lovelorn, conceals her unhappiness for fear of faltering in her self-command: “She was stronger alone, and her own good sense so well supported her, that her firmness was as unshaken, her appearance of cheerfulness as invariable as […] it was possible for them to be.” In the end, her sister, too, learns to regulate her once-wild emotions.

To be composed is not to be insincere, and Austen does not tolerate the pretentious. The vile Lucy Steele, Caroline Bingley, and Mary Crawford are allowed to preen and peacock, but Austen always deflates them with her rapier of a pen. Of fools and fops and flirts she makes only few deft strokes and they are rendered in all their stupidity: “She encircles them with the lash of a whip-like phrase which, as it runs round them, cuts out their silhouettes for ever,” Virginia Woolf writes. “But there they remain; no excuse is found for them and no mercy shown them.” Her morality is stringent, her wit, withering, and all delivered in perfect economy.

I find her tact all the more refreshing, reading her in a time which often looks on any constraint (formal technique or sexual or what have you) as a vestige of irrelevant, oppressive conservatism. It’s true, of course, that women’s voices have often been treated as unruly forces to be controlled. Literature is full of prattling, silly females, and ideas of women’s speech as something polluting goes back to the ancient Greeks (see Anne Carson’s brilliant essay “Dirt and Desire” in Men in the Off Hours). Often a woman’s speech has been collapsed with her body and sexuality into a single menace, in need of male society’s discipline. One 17th century treatise draws a connection from “this great indecency of loquacity in women” to its “symptom of a loose, impotent soul, a kind of incontinence of the mind”; another tract claims, “More shall we see fall into sinne by speech than silence.”

More recently, feminist theorists like Helene Cixous and Luce Irigaray have also drawn connections between female bodies and speech in a more empowering way. Their writings, like Cixous’ “The Laugh of the Medusa,” tried to stake out a space for écriture féminine, a language that would come from women’s bodies rather than the rational, “phallogocentric” language which men have created. Irigaray made the connection more literal: Women need to speak, she urged, with both sets of lips. Language becomes something physical and visceral: Like Cassandra in Louise Bogan’s poem, “Song, like a wing, tears through my breast, my side.”

It is impossible to imagine feelings secreting from Austen or being torn from her body as in childbirth. There’s nothing violent or physical in her writing. But I make the comparison to écriture féminine because I’m highly invested in this question: What makes language “masculine” or “feminine”? Thus far in this rambling treatise of mine, it seems I’ve been trying to free Austen from associations of “girly-ness” by praising her tactics of control and constraint – traits which Western culture have often coded as masculine. Does this argument serve to, yet again, enshrine “male” language as superior?

I don’t have answers for all of these questions. We can only speculate on what kind of a writer Austen would have been, had she been granted travel, work, education, the world of men. But neither her content nor style need to be excused for any “false consciousness” born out of Regency values. Feeling and reason, freedom and restraint, make up any experience of being human; feeling is never an evil in itself, nor wholly separate from reason. My purpose here is not to deride emotion nor regulate it to a feminine realm. Instead, let me now turn your attention to how Austen’s tact makes feeling more potent for being quietly expressed.

My favorite of her novels is her last: Persuasion, and it is in Persuasion that we see a more pensive treatment of emotion. Anne is 28, older than the other novels’ heroines, more subdued than the spirited Elizabeth or Emma. Like Austen, she had a disappointment in love. In the seven years since she was pressured into breaking off an engagement (the prospects of the man in question were not deemed secure enough), she has drawn into herself, into poetry, reflection, regret: “She had been forced into prudence in her youth, she learned romance as she grew older: the natural sequel of an unnatural beginning.”   

The satire in Persuasion is not so fresh and hilarious as before, but the quiet and reflection give it a new beauty. Anne has been through the worst, and now carries steadily on in its solitary aftermath. She, and Austen, remind me of something Bogan once said about writing feeling – that she did not write in the midst of intense emotion, but after it had passed, when she could see it clearly.

I want to quote Woolf again, because she’s written so beautifully on these novels: In comparing Austen to Greek drama, she writes, “There comes a moment – ‘I will dance with you,’ says Emma – which rises higher than the rest, which, though not eloquent in itself, or violent, or made striking by beauty of language, has the whole weight of the book behind it. In Jane Austen, too, we have the same sense, though the ligatures are much less tight, that her figures are bound, and restricted to a few definite movements. She, too, in her modest, everyday prose, chose the dangerous art where one slip means death.”

The moment, Persuasion’s soaring moment, comes in the argument about constancy, when Anne defends women from charges of their fickleness. “We certainly do not forget you as soon as you forget us,” she says, and here we must also hear the voice of Austen, now 40 and perhaps long accustomed to living with memory and solitude. “We cannot help ourselves. We live at home, quiet, confined, and our feelings prey upon us. … All the privilege I claim for my own sex (it is not a very enviable one; you need not covet it), is that of loving longest, when existence or when hope is gone.”

This is the poetry of Austen. The unsaid, the sorrow in silence, they are present. No effusions of feeling could achieve the same effect.

What is said is less important than how. A country ball, a letter, an embarrassment, a walk into town – this is not epic stuff. And yet here, too, in “modest, everyday prose,” in all the small choices and crises of real life, she gives us the sense that something larger is at stake: the task of being an authentic, moral person in a world not of one’s making. And that, if you’ll permit me a momentary lapse in tact, takes some serious balls.

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

A brief and inglorious history of my activist career

There’s a small dirty boy in the seventh grade. His sharply arched eyebrows give his face a goblinish quality. His fingers, always black with dirt. During class a hilarity or rage or some terrible energy build inside him: he’ll drum his fingers on the desk, kick his feet against the table, stare at me and make kissing noises. He rocks back and forth as if this terrible energy is about to tear him apart.

“Hey! Hey!” the boy, whose name I don’t remember, often yells at me in the halls. His voice is strangled, high-pitched, with thorns sticking out all over it. I am reminded of the street kids in Cape Town. “Hey! Hey, sister!” they called out from corners. Their faces had sharp, hunted looks that were not like the faces of children. They were all messed up on tik, a cheap and potent form of crack. My friend Blanca once said as we passed a particularly noisy one, “That one is my least favorite.” We referred to him as “Least Favorite” from then on. It made things easier.

The boy in the seventh form inspires pity, but also disgust. It is with disgust, hypocrisy, and the need to distance oneself, that I am concerned. They are not useful feelings, but human, and so they interest me. 

Lately, reading updates on Occupy Wall Street, I think about my own history with protest, and with misanthropy, and how they might be related. In college I was always protesting something. My motivations, now that I examine them, were often to attract the attention of whichever adorably rumpled, unwashed hipster I was trying at that moment to bang.

This realization would have horrified me in those years. I bled sincerity, I oozed it. I courted gritty authenticity like Borges’ younger self, who loved “late afternoons, drab outskirts, and unhappiness.” Everything ugly pleased me: Walking to one job at Streetwise, the paper sold by homeless people, I gloried in pieces of pig fat, blood and bone, rotting in the sun outside meatpacking factories. Like these figures, protest represented a way to root myself in realness. I positioned myself on the side of the People, whoever they might be.

A few years ago (the distance gives me much relief now) the then-object of my affection told me about a protest to take place the student center’s cafeteria. We would dramatize the plight of McDonalds’ underpaid tomato farmers in Florida. When I bounded over, I found only two others had shown up: One, a socially awkward transgendered boy who smiled in a inane, grimacey way at everything, and always managed to work his trans experience into any conversation; the other, a thin, tight-mouthed girl who had spent a year in Chile and also tended to constantly reference her time abroad. They burned with revolutionary passion. They filled my hands with fliers, which I duly passed out among students who, if they looked at me at all, looked vaguely disgusted.

Then the theatre portion began. In the middle of the cafeteria, the pseudo-Chilean girl stood up on a chair and began barking out orders as if she were a plantation overseer. “Work harder! Work faster! No water breaks! You are nothing!” Her voice was thin, shrill and trembling. The boy and I scrambled around on the floor for an interminable period, stretching our hands out as if picking tomatoes in merciless heat. I half-laughed, in a way I hoped looked ironic, as I worked in “the fields,” and eventually (the girl still squawking) stood up and leaned casually against a table, as if to say, “Oh, don’t mind me, I’m just hanging out in the middle of this protest.”

At last, she jumped clumsily down from her chair. In her thin little voice, she called for the students to support the real-life tomato farmers by boycotting McDonald’s. In the following silence, a meaty jock rose from his seat. He declared in a tone of mock-somberness: “The Big Mac … is the most delicious sandwich … I have ever … eaten.” The cafeteria burst into laughter and applause.

I have never met any oppressed tomato farmers, so I’m not sure if they would have appreciated the sacrifice of my dignity on the altar of their struggle. Even now I’m not exactly sure why I went through with this spectacle. I think, more than the pressure from my comrades Mr. and Mrs. Proletariat, I needed to prove to myself that my outrage and commitment were genuine. Which, of course, they were not. 

To be committed to something, a cause, an ideal – that is, in essence, why I joined Peace Corps. Point me in one direction, I asked of the world, and I will bend all of me toward it, I will offer all of me. But people are not so easy to love as ideals.

I once looked out from my office window across the lawn, and I saw the dirty boy. Some bigger boys surrounded him, leaning over and leering in his face. He cowered like a mouse and they, cat-like, batted his shrunken body between them. Then he broke away and ran into the surrounding trees. I watched and didn’t move. I hated the big leering boys, and hated whatever in this culture allowed them to become what they are, and I hated myself for my impotence, for never being able to move nor speak nor stop their ugly, senseless games. Most of all, I hated the indifference that distance brings – how it would crawl, inexorable in its ether as sleep or death, over all deep feeling – how it would make null even my hate. 

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

One year later

A year ago today I arrived in Ukraine for the first time. Or this week, at least – my sense of time and date were seriously shaken when I wandered through Borispol that day, smelling of recycled air, horrified by the airport squat toilets and trying to arrange the right face for my face as I met a horde of other volunteers. Already I was cold. Through a bus window I watched pine trees and dead sunflower fields.

Between classes today I walked through the cemetery beside school. The graves, in typical Ukrainian fashion, are painted garishly, bright teals and oranges now going to rust and peeling, plastic bouquets heaped over them, white turkeys squabbling along the road. Rushes waved over a pond in the distance. The trees begin their copper-mottled corruption. I thought about home. Mostly shadowy recollections of my childhood. I watched Little Women last week and cried when Beth gets the piano for Christmas. I am not too prideful yet to not be occasionally sentimental. And anyway, it is not just home that I’m sick for, but the impossible, never-healed wound that is the past having passed.

Still, I know I tend to complain or wax melancholy on this thing, and it’s not really justified. My tendency toward hyperbole might have you believe, at times, that I scrape out a living between briars of some Hieronymus Bosch nightmare-scape, fending off alien shapes which poop swallows as sinners couple like giant rats.

Not so. I have been enormously lucky in the past year, and it’s time to take stock of what I have:

- A new language. Occasionally garbled and halting in my mouth, or incomprehensibly mingled with Russian in other mouths, still Ukrainian manages to delight me and challenge me daily.

- Raw, real, gritty life experience. Once I’m home, I am totally playing up bucket baths, candlelit lesson planning, dog bites, pickpockets, screaming old women, and sleeping on trains surrounded by drunk men, and I am going to be the biggest dreamboat of the ball. Crunchy, rural-wannabe hipster beauts creeeeam themselves over that shit – it goes right along with their farmer markets and making their own clothes and little knitted owls with button-eyes or whatever. Finally, finally, I will get all of the dates! Just thinking about it makes me so gleeful I wish I could date myself! Thank God I can also date women, so that’s sort of close!

- Way too many books read, poems and stories and whiny blog entries penned. Weak internet and lack of friends give me more time for creativity and reflection than any fellowship I could ever apply for.

- Tons of teaching experience. True, most of my students make me want to eat glass with their willful ignorance and lack of human empathy. But it isn’t all bad. Sometimes I draw little cartoons or we play games. Plus, I’ve also met some Ukrainian young people who really are going to change their country. Considering what little support they have, their ambition and hard work are all the more impressive.

- Truly, truly great friends. In Bogdanivka, countless times my colleagues and neighbors have gone out of their way to help me. Today I opened the front gate to find an enormous bag of vegetables, including an entire pumpkin, from another teacher.

I also now know some premium Americans. In Kiev this weekend for a Gender and Development meeting, I found myself constantly surrounded by people I care for and admire. I don’t say any of this lightly. I am extremely judgmental and have little patience for the pretenses of others. But I can say without any fear of hyperbole that Peace Corps Ukraine is full of smart, passionate, funny, and downright good-looking volunteers, and I’m proud to call some of them my friends.

While I’m getting sentimental again, I’d also like to thank all of my friends and family from home right now. All the letters and packages and emails and facebook posts and every small, warm thing over the past year – they are remembered and mean a lot. I don’t know how to pay back your many kindnesses. Just know that I think of you all often, and with all the love I have.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

I'm back. Also, older. Also, old bodies.

Figures of beauty and of the grotesque war for my attention and divide me. For a month I tried (not very hard) to write something about Germany. But I have so little to say of my own on Western Europe. Everything comes out sounding like another person’s experience, one of those insufferable study abroad returnees who corners you at parties to lecture on Viennese architecture, or tries to teach you the polka. Nothing shocked me, no screaming mouths of old women, sunken and full of gold teeth; no dogs raping each other. I was happy. But other people’s happiness is not interesting.

Remembering that happiness, too, I become irritated that it has passed. Walking the narrow streets, watching the beautiful people at cafes, I could lucidly see myself living in these cities, a real person’s life – like the feeling when I was younger, being abroad for the first time. There was a marvelous newness to the world, and untested pleasures. There would be an initiation, a crossing over the threshold of life, and from then on, I would be a part of something.

If now my voice can take on a smug cynicism, throughout this blog, it may be because I will be 24 on Tuesday, and sometimes the days at school (even after only one week!) are very long and very lonely. Yet I still have very high expectations for the world, and for the place I will assume in it.

And Ukraine still provides its own picaresque of absurdities for my interest. A few weeks ago I went to the Black Sea. There are many old bodies along the water. One was pink and white as a baby, in large sunglasses and hat; like a baby, no elbows or knees, merely stacked flesh folds. Her small black bikini pinched the folds and made her even more pink and white. Another was scrawnier, but her stomach obscenely bloated, scalded red. She sat with her legs spread out around it and placed a towel on top, fanning the stomach.

Old men in lawn chairs looked at the young girls bathing with heavy, red-lidded looks. What desires, I wonder, still rattle around warped frames? How helpless they must be to their now-obscene lusts. I don’t mean this in a judgmental way. We are all prisoners inside our bodies. This interests me. I wonder if I will desire young bodies when I am very old, and if this feeling will horrify me.

I remember one on a train, with his water-warped notebooks, all shoved in a bag. He flipped through them, numbers and names, lists, scribbled crossed-out notes. The handwriting was like a child’s. He jabbered at Valentina as we rode home. His mouth was purple and trembled. He showed her a photograph (himself?): a young man in uniform, with the clear gaze of young men who have put on a uniform for the first time.

Poems I have written for them, these old men whose tatty coats flap from their backs as they bicycle, jaws set on cigarettes. Shoulders set, as if out of spite, bonily. How like greasy old crows, I thought. My poems were full of crows, black wings on the snow. I don’t like the words now. They were cold and small and self-satisfied. I haven’t written a poem in months. I feel very unright about how I write them, and would like to wax long and excessive now.

But only so much of the grotesque or grit is tolerable. When it exhausts me, I need to feel that the world is ordered into pure forms of beauty. I read some uncollected Anthony Hecht poems in the new issue of Poetry; as always, he hammers chaos into a pleasing shape. I look at some paintings. Rebecca Zorach’s book on the French Renaissance, Blood, Milk, Ink, Gold, arrived in the mail. On the cover is Diana attended by nymphs, half-shielded by crimson robes, and leering satyrs. Her skin looks lamped from the inside. Actaeon watches from the far left, still unseen; to the right, indicating his fatal metamorphosis, a stag writhes in agony, set upon by golden hounds. It is perfect.

I listen to Thomas Tallis. The polyphonics spiral and expand like throats, like the ceiling of the cathedral in Cologne. A large reliquary sits below the apse like gold flame. I thought of it again today in the forest – the trees as pillars, drawing the eye down to a small whorl of light where a clearing is. The air is different, in cathedrals and forests, clearer. It made me feel holy and ancient, as if I were a broken monument, white marble scattered across anonymous sands.

Such a feeling, though, is too abstract; again, too small and cold. I do not want to be rubble. Above all, I want a more human writing. More than any sweeping gestures toward perfection, there may be more of eternity in prosaic, awkward-shaped realities.

Sunday, July 24, 2011

"I strike the eye..."

On Wednesday I will be in Germany. This summer I do not stop moving, and it is a good place to be in, no-place, en route and always a little dirty, dazed. I sleep on many trains. This has the unfortunate effect of never being quite prepared for the places in which I wake up. I’ve forgotten German. Even simple sentences require a monumental effort of memory, first English to Ukrainian, then Ukrainian to German. All I have is an untranslated copy of Rilke’s The Book of Hours. I imagine myself flipping through it wildly in the airport. Guard: “Where are your documents?” Me: “Uh… ‘You must change your life!’”

Everyone survived Camp GLOW. Girls were empowered, feel-goodery and fun enjoyed by all. In all seriousness, I do like working with young people, especially such smart, engaged ones as these. It invigorates, makes me feel less of a 50-year-old. I even got to teach a poetry workshop. We read Anne Carson’s “Father’s Own Blue Cardigan” and Adrienne Rich’s “Song.” I think, despite the language barrier, poetry is useful for ESL students. In Ukrainian classrooms poetry is all sing-song regurgitation. They do not pay each word the inspection it demands.

I want to tell you more about this campsite. Not to whine about my discomfort; rather, because I am fascinated with the miserable people who run that miserable little dump. The manager, Andre, lied often. Before our camp, another group of PCVs had run a camp dealing with environmental issues. Andre had agreed to give their students a mini-environmental project to conduct around the campsite, something like composting. Instead, he made some campers help chop down young saplings in the forest and build him a fence. Well, such is Ukraine, the country of burning trash piles.

His campsite is pretty, but is slowly going to bog. The outdoor showers have nowhere to drain, so their spray collects in muddy puddles. Every evening this attracts mosquitoes, which descend in huge numbers like a corrupted air, flutter inside our ears, devoured us. The rooms felt dirty. We slept on rusty springs, which sagged when sat on with a humiliated creak.
Some relief we found at the river. It too was dirty, thick with furry moss and tentacled blossoms, but cool. I liked to tread water and watch the reeds. Once a boy came to the water. He splashed at everyone, letting out strange, high-pitched squeals, flinging bits of algae or spreading it over his fingers. His eyebrows wagged at me. Squealing, squealing. His mouth opened very wide and was full of teeth.

One evening there was a wedding party. They were very drunk. So too was the campsite staff. One man, who did not seem to know how to put on his shirt correctly (forever flapping from his back, cape-like, his slack white chest open), many times approached our girls, even after our director Stephanie many times told him not to. The next morning, Andre’s wife scolded Stephanie: “Tell your girls to be nice to our staff, smile, and say hello.” She was also drunk at the time. She had a fleshy face with a small doll’s features inside of it: red mouth, eyebrows shaved off and skinny ones penciled on.

If I had any mind for plot I’d write these people into a short story. I fear writing fiction might be too painful an exercise. My mind either fastens on details or it abstracts. It can’t take in the whole, real sweep of a day; it ignores how conversations actually sound and wants only language glorified or perverted or twisted inside-out. It turns bodies into signs. I must work harder. Reading Defoe’s A Journal of the Plague Year and I, too, itch to make something out of London in 1666, that year numbered for the Beast – when comets boded the plague and flames to come; when necromancers and astrologers hawked quack elixirs until they themselves erupted in dreaded buboes; when houses of the sick were marked and, horribly, sealed. I can never want for more world, I just don’t know how to make it into something else.

Reading selections of Virginia Woolf’s diary now. She is a chimera of passion and composure, good humor and sharp edge. It is a delight, too, to watch the novels as clouds taking shape, to see her as not yet canon and still sniped at by critics: “I strike the eye; and elderly gentlemen in particular get annoyed.” I do not think I could do anything she could not do better, but maybe I will strike in my own way. “For I figure that the approach will be entirely different this time: no scaffolding; scarcely a brick to be seen; all crepuscular, but the heart, the passion, humour, everything as bright as fire in the mist.”

Saturday, July 16, 2011

Fatfoot

A man on a bus with a bucket of dark berries folded his hands and they were stained blue. The hands were square and sausage-fingered, and some blue patches were more purple or pink like sunset, with the darkest blue around his nails. These, hands that deserve a painting of themselves.

Last week, out west near Lutsk with some friends, we swam in a river. Less swam than were carried, the current cool and gentle arms. Cows stood at the bank, us scrambling up the mud, and cranes in the trees. Later at my friend’s house, one white crane came to the door. Someone said it was a good luck sign. The visitor spread enormous wings laced in black.

I write from a campsite in eastern Ukraine, where I’m preparing for a girl’s camp with a few other volunteers. Today we set out from the woods into town. The road, straight and white, vibrated with heat. A truck pulled over and we got in the back, where three workmen sat on benches. One’s huge bare belly shook as the wheels drove into ditches. His face was shiny, he asked question after question and his friends laughed. One laughed so hard, him a skinny one shirtless in overalls and tattooed in vague Asian calligraphy, and his eyes went red with tears. We didn’t understand much beyond, “Do you have a husband?” We said yes.

The other PCVs here are such positive, extroverted people, I don’t know how to talk to them. Everything that comes out my mouth is lame and depressing. “I don’t really like team sports. Or any games, really.” Or, “Actually, I can’t ride a bike very well.” Now I am hiding in my cabin because my bug-bite-ravaged foot has become grotesquely swollen. I am Fatfoot. I hate camp.

This reminds me of a conversation I had with Svitlana. I’d prepared a great deal of flashcards for the GRE in English Literature. I told her that I take a lot of pleasure in memorizing who wrote what, and what makes a sonnet Italian or English, or what “hexameter” is, and so on. Her response was typically Svitlanish: “I have come to think recently that people who read many books do not know how to live in the real world.”

Well, duh. Thanks Svitlana. I guess that’s why I’m the camp Quasimodo. Maybe I should jump on the next truck of workmen. Where they are headed must be the world.

I’ve written about this before, the relationship between the “real world” and the imagination – a relationship far too interesting to be so tersely dismissed. There are, I’m convinced, as many realities as there are people. Everyone experiences a world shaped by culture, by memory, by imagination. Even if we agree, OK, there’s some objective foundation to the world that is a real world – well, without art, that world’d be worthless.

Writers don’t need to be redeemed for their impracticality. “They also serve who only stand and wait.” That’s Milton, Svitlana. Put that in your borscht and eat it.

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Wroclaw notes

At the border between Poland and Ukraine, a man with no nose and an eye missing smokes a cigarette. The holes of his no-nose are small black slits over a gray mustache. Officers click tall boot heels. They have slick black braids under their caps, their uniforms fit close and neat-pressed, their beauty is some kind of fierce machine.

I am on the train all day. Another young American has the compartment next to mine. He has been hanging around Kiev, trying, inexplicably, to teach himself Ukrainian. This leads me to conclude that a great deal of the world’s money and time are wasted on foolish people. “You’re here for another year and a half? You are very lucky,” he says enviously. He may be right. But as a person who tends toward the selfish and melancholic, I probably will not understand how right.

…

Opening into a toothy dragon’s mouth, “a thing that vomits” (literally translated from Polish), a cylinder to purge rainwater from a tower’s drainpipe. Its metal eyes are sleepy and dopey.

Other small pleasures surface. In the main square, where the town hall imposes its golden sun-faced clock over market stalls, I see carved beasts crawling over each other. On one side of an entryway, a stone man slumps, beer in hand. On the other, a sharp-faced woman removes her shoe, as if preparing to beat him with it. Outside the Teatr Lalek (“Theatre of the Dolls”) we catch a puppet-show rehearsal. The puppets (wonderful, gangle-limbed, frog-eyed figures) clank beer steins and, Jacek tells me, sing about how much they love beer. I think we could be 500 years before ourselves, watching a Punch-and-Judy show.

It’s typical of Americans in Europe to remark, “There’s so much history here,” as if the New World’s millennia of civilizations don’t count as history. And yet I understand this feeling; we don’t live with that history. Even the spaces built in modern times are constantly giving way to malls, parking lots, other ghastly eyesores; "everything is torn down / Before," as James Merrill writes, "you have had time to care for it."

Old paintings and etchings show Wroclaw’s main square looking much as it does now: market stalls set outside orderly, warm-colored buildings, the Gothic church spires rising from every cobblestone street. But only in recent years has Wroclaw come back to resemble that past. Something like 60 or 70 percent of the city was destroyed in World War II. Inside the cathedral of John the Baptist, there’s a black-and-white photograph of its interior taken in1945. The vaulted ceiling is completely gone, reduced to rubble across the floor. Sanctuary walls meet a blank sky. A centuries-swallowing erasure in that sky.

It is difficult to imagine. Again, World War II is a history with which we don’t live. And I would rather turn from it to a history more lovely, and lovelier for having further passed: that of “Breslau,” the old Prussian city. Aula Leopoldina, the sumptuous university hall, is a riot of splendor, one is almost embarrassed for its ostentatious display. It wars for your eye. It tricks your eye. The trompe l’oeil ceiling feigns a celestial opening, flocked by robed and shapely allegorical figures for the arts and sciences. I want to strip the columns of their gold trimming and roll around in it, until I glitter as much as this place.

…

 “Where is the Wroclaw that drinks and then sings?” a young man demands of his friends. We hear their proud, proudly drunk, song carry on down the street. Another group of disheveled folk play guitar and sing in a tunnel. The words are Polish, but I recognize the melody as the one Ukrainian folk song I can sing, “Piedmenula, Piedvela.”

I’m really excited by this moment, and by the many cognates between Ukrainian and Polish. Tomato, pomidor. Bread, khleb. Ice cream, morozovo (we eat ice cream at least once a day). I communicate with Jacek’s grandmother in a slurry of Ukrainian, English, and wild gesturing. At one point I ask her if I may eat the soup in the kitchen. She says something to me kindly, nervously, then goes to Jacek in the next room. He tells me, “My grandmother is concerned. She thinks you want soup but isn't sure.”   

Jacek and I end each night in the square. Once there were fire dancers. They whip cords of flame around their bodies, and the flames taper into blue lines. Past midnight, a flower stand has its lights on, selling roses under a full moon. We talk and drink for a long time.

When I try to write down what we said to each other, it looks less true to the eye than it did in my ears. The words were lived and now are not content to be objects. I rarely talk to friends now except through email and letters. This depresses me a little. But I am, anyway, more comfortable with myself on a page.

We talk about words. To be able to conceive of something, we both sometimes need to narrate what’s happening to ourselves. On the train home, as Polish country whipped by and blurred itself, my brain called it all out into being, desperate to know it: Church. Green spire, rusted wall. Trash pile on fire. Orchard. Smell of pine. Smell of rain.

Maybe we don't think, don't live, except in language. Much postmodern theory tells us so. Is it then self-delusion, to think we may access a reality beneath words? That such a reality does indeed exist? I am uncomfortable with the idea of “reality” in its generalness, its claims to objectivity and, thus, truth. It often constitutes the world of images, and the image already tyrannizes our hold on truth. This tyranny is subtle and manipulative because all images claim to be self-evident.

So I stand by the reality of words. If it is even possible to “stand by” a thing that is no thing, that shapeshifts, reflects, refracts, doubles and triples in meaning, evades me.

Friday, June 3, 2011

Borderland

Heat moved visibly over the dirt. In a field we sifted among cornhusks for old iron. One piece contained a hardened slick of it, a black and liquid curve. Sometimes people find remnants of ancient Scythian weaponry, said Viktor, one of the leaders of this camping trip. Elsewhere we hunted Scythian barrow grounds, but found none. Just red poppies, and a row of red-rusted tractors. They sat impotent and huge as dinosaur bones.

For two days I camped with a group of 11 schoolchildren and four other adults, touring our region’s countryside. We walked for hours each day and only saw a few people the whole time. A farmer, shirt off and gray feet bare, brought us pails of wellwater to fill our bottles.

History, seen and unseen, passes through everything. To me, every field is a swath of bright nowhere; to Viktor, they are sites of skirmishes between Cossacks and Tartars; a deep impression in the forest floor was caused by a WWII bomb. He talks about history constantly. He was my school group’s guide at Kholodnee Yar, the monastery near Kirovograd, and I came on the trip at his request. A self-described nationalist, he’s in fatigues and combat boots – the modern-day “Cossack” style. He loves Mel Gibson and traditional Ukrainian music; hates Russia and the current president. “He wants to bring Ukraine back to Communism,” he told me as we rested under a tree.

You can better understand ardent nationalism in Ukraine if you consider the past century here. It ravaged Ukraine, repeatedly. Even before the devastation of World War II, millions died in the Great Hunger of 1932-3. The famine was less a “famine,” the word implying natural disaster, than a genocidal attack executed by Stalin on rural Ukraine. Historian Robert Conquest estimates 7 million dead as a result of collectivization (5 million in Ukraine, 2 million elsewhere in Soviet Union), with another 6.5 million killed in political repressions beforehand. That’s more than double the Holocaust.

This information stunned me. Considering how little recognition it receives in the West, it makes sense that many Ukrainians feel hostility toward Russia and a sense of victimization.

To be honest, though, Viktor’s profusions of nationalism began to annoy me. Not only that, they made me nervous. “I really think Ukraine is preparing for civil war,” he said. And later: “I and my friends would die for our country.” His voice was eager, proud. Flies and heat and nausea buzzed in my ears.

Last month on Victory Day, commemorating defeat of Nazi Germany, fighting broke out in Lviv. Members of the nationalist Svoboda party were angered by public displays of the Soviet flag – a popular historical symbol of the Soviet 150th Infantry Division. Reportedly, they attacked a pro-Russian activists with rocks and smoke bombs. Someone with the pro-Russians fired a gun with rubber bullets. Sixteen were injured, none seriously.

I can’t judge Viktor for this group’s violent actions. And really, I’m not entitled an opinion about any of this; this is not my country. But there’s often a subtle violence, I think, in borders – how they’re formed, how they’re defended. Ukraine’s physical boundaries have shifted for centuries. After so much oppression, many people understandably want to glorify Ukrainian culture. But “culture” is never static, never solid. Russia is inextricably intertwined with Ukraine, in the people’s fused pastiche of language, in their shared history.

Ukraine’s name comes from the word for “borderland.” A more productive way of living in a borderland, rather than exchanging bullets or smoke bombs, is to exchange a closed brain for a flexible one. 

"The struggle is inner," said Gloria Anzaldua, writing about mixed identity in her (amazing) book,  Borderlands/La Frontera: The New Mestiza. "Chicano, indio, American Indian, mojado, mexicano, immigrant Latino, Anglo in power, working class Anglo, Black, Asian--our psyches resemble the bordertowns and are populated by the same people. The struggle has always been inner, and is played out in outer terrains. Awareness of our situation must come before inner changes, which in turn come before changes in society. Nothing happens in the ‘real’ world unless it first happens in the images in our heads.”  

The camping trip was to last four days, but I decided to leave a day early. My skin was seared red, my lip weirdly puffy, and I just felt strange. I’d had to share an impossibly tiny tent with Viktor, and waking up next to him was somehow more than I could handle. He walked me to the bus stop in a town a few miles from our campsite. We left at dawn, the lake steaming. I ran my hand along growing wheat. It was all soft sticky brushes.

We sat in the grass at the bus station, across from a statue of Lenin. Viktor snorted and glared. “Ukrainian people are silly. Lenin was a bad man.” He went on to talk about immigrants, then about Mel Gibson again. I pulled up grass and tied it into knots. I said, “Viktor, Mel Gibson hates black people,” and then I said nothing more.

…

“Soy un amasamiento, I am an act of kneading, of uniting, and joining that not only has produced both a creature of darkness and a creature of light, but also a creature that questions the definitions of light and dark and gives them new meanings.” - Anzaldua

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Where could my heart flee from my heart?

“To Carthage I came, where there sang all around me in my ears a cauldron of unholy loves. As yet I loved no one, yet loved to love, and out of a deep-seated need, I hated myself for not being needy. I pursued whoever-whatever might be lovable, in love with love. Safety I hated – and any course without danger. For within me was a famine.” – Augustine of Hippo, Confessions.

…

Was in Kiev for the Gender and Development meeting. I rarely get to do what I want to do when in Kiev, instead finding myself in something Kafka dreamed. I’m meeting Jacek for a few days in Poland next month, so I had to buy train tickets, and this involved running between train stations, standing in wrong lines, not having enough money, running to cash machine and back. All of me is rushing without patience toward summer. It is furious at having to wait for anything, at any ordinary thing. It wants only to be beaten like a instrument until some perfect chord breaks it.

The bouncer at a gay bar tried to charge me an exorbitant cover charge because I am a woman. I think the Gender and Development council should do something about this. I think I should spearhead a subcommittee called Let Lesbians Dance.

Busloads of schoolchildren had come to Kiev for Europe Day. They wore florescent, shiny polyester costumes. A woman inside a school bus helped a little girl on with her enormous dress. It was like a neon green bath loofa. Outside a beer tent, a waitress chased a homeless man away with a broom. He was so dirty his skin was gray, face scabbed, and his neckless head and body seemed egg-shaped.

A man in the metro played a violin. He played like a riotous wind the birds turn in. The music streamed up the escalator where a woman stood going down, staring down her several chins, hands clasped before her belly, eyes rimmed bright blue. A faded opera diva. Suddenly she is the deus ex machina, wheeled creakingly descending into the music’s fury, her last brave entrance.

….

May has brought a few school excursions. I joined some of the ninth grade girls and teachers to see a church outside of Kirovograd. It stands, domed, painted with long-faced Gods, at the edge of a wet bright wood. The green was almost alien after a rain, muddy animal holes, and birches with black eyes in them.

The icons inside glinted, glittery shades of foil pasted around Madonnas as if in a scrapbook. A large gold-painted gate stood in front (shielding our eyes from some sacred object, I wondered?), segmented into bright scenes from the Passion. It contrasted almost garishly with white-washed walls, the clean light coming in from the domed roof.

The women light candles. They cross themselves and bow three times. They have quiet, unthinking confidence within these movements. Never self-conscious. Our tour guide, a young man, watches me watch with a look of amused interest. What is the right look for my face? What sobriety, awe? “Do you feel – an energy?” he asks me in halting, eager English. Whatever within me that might have expanded, now contracts very suddenly, and breaks off.

Too far to make a sound, a few nuns sow the field beside the church. Their folds of black layers flap in the wind. They bend to the black earth, scrape and straighten and bend. 

…

“I carried inside me a cut and bleeding soul, and how to get rid of it I just didn’t know. I sought every pleasure – the countryside, sports, fooling around, the peace of a garden, friends and good company, sex, reading. My soul floundered in the void – and came back upon me. For where could my heart flee from my heart? Where could I escape from myself?” – Augustine

…

Last week I asked Valentina if I could help her garden. She burst into laughter, then looked at me indulgently. “You want to help! But you don’t know what to do,” she tutted. Nevertheless, I was permitted to haul water and pour it into holes for tomatoes. All the kitchen gardens on our street lie out beside each other. The rows of fledgling green shoots reminded me of lines of verse. Cold mud splattered my legs.

A very young girl walked beside the fence emitting a high screech, again and again, “Eee! Eee! Eee! Eee!” Like a bird or kitten. She ran her hand along the fence, staring at me, “Eee! Eee! Eee! Eee!”, then she was gone.

The afternoons have been dark and full of thunder. Your fingertips feel electric with it. Petals rip off. A goat rolls his eyes, rolls his grizzled neck in its chain, by a stained white wall.

Rain breaks as I go to sleep and clangs metallic.

Friday, May 6, 2011

Insect armor

Waiting for the bus to Oleksandriya, a drunk man totters in front of a Roma woman. He is carrying on what appears to be, through his garbling mouth, a grotesque flirtation. “Oy!” he groans, clutching his head. “Oy!” He has almost fallen over. His eyes are heavy with skin-sacs. She – maybe 15 years old, maybe 40 – has the stunted, sharp look of these women who shuffle through train stations in felt house-slippers. They recite a plea, palm out, the way school children recite poems they don’t understand. Flat words colliding into each other. This woman carries an infant beneath her arm. It, too, seems ageless, very wrinkled, very quiet. It could be fetal, or an old man impossibly shrunken, or not a human child at all.

A young man, perhaps his grandson or nephew, is now standing behind them. He is acutely uncomfortable. Many people outside the bus station are watching. “Come on, our bus is coming.” He shifts from leg to leg, scowls at the sidewalk. The man takes out his wallet, fumbles, still stumbling, and hands her a five – “Milk for the baby,” he says to her beaming. Somehow he ends up behind me in line to board. “Go on, beautiful.” The muscles in my neck and back clench, unclench.

Warm weather brings out lechers, like cicadas from the ground. In the city, one of my friend’s neighbors tries to grab us and kiss us. We wriggle out of his ham-hands, telling him not to touch us. I worry for my friend, but I feel more anger and annoyance than fear. I, too, am cicada-like. My anger is insect armor.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Lights in the dark

On Easter I woke to the dark disorientation of 2 a.m., pulled on some clothes and got ready for church. My friend Zoryana and her uncle met me outside. The moon was distended and red, and my street, weirdly awake, a row of yellow windows. We walked a long time, it seemed, before we heard full-throated singing.

Zoryana gave me a scarf to cover my head, which I kept tugging on agitatedly as it fell off. (“Very nice hair,” she said, knotting the scarf again for me, “but very slippery.”) We made our slow way into the church’s small sanctuary, which was cramped with people; the walls crammed with gold paintings of Mary, Christ and the saints, and brass fixtures holding candles. Before the crowd I made out life-size, painted wooden figures representing the crucifixion. The priest’s singing voice, intoning a prayer, reverberated. A choir picked up the response – women draped in white shawls.

Afterwards we joined a line of people curving from the building around its lawn. Everyone was presenting their baskets of food to be blessed – eggs, sausage, and the traditional Easter cake: a cylindrical, rainbow-sprinkled affair, like an elongated cupcake. Also like a penis. The people placed candles through the cakes, and soon the lawn was a ring of small lights. Cold, on a sharp edge of caffeinated alertness, I watched the warm pink glow of palms as they cupped the flames to keep from going out.

When the prayers ended, the priest walked around the long line, ringing bells. A second time, he circled with a basin of holy water, dashing it into faces. It was cold and sprayed my glasses, and had a sweet aroma I couldn’t place. We kissed each other three times on the cheek and exchanged, Kristos voskrees – Voyeestymu voskrees! (Christ is risen; truly he has risen.)

Darkness and light – it’s not surprising to see such primal themes in any culture’s traditions. And yet I was surprised by how much this service affected me – how these small lights could strike in me so much joy.

I remember a lot of joy in our Easters growing up, the hymns, the white-draped cross. But more than this, I remember my near-hysterical sense of relief. The Good Friday service was always dramatic, and to me, frightening. Twelve candles lined the altar. As someone read the Bible, and as each disciple abandoned Jesus, the candles were gradually removed.

Sitting in the dark stretched out eternally. It isolated one completely. I was 11 or 12, but I am sure I understood – with a clarity very exacting, and very cold – what the world was with God dead. It was death.

In his writings on the Resurrection, Joseph Campbell emphasizes the metaphorical importance of Jesus joining with, at once, all humanity and all divinity. “We, similarly, are to identify with the eternal life within us,” he said in one interview. “The symbol [of the cross] at the same time tells us of God’s willing acceptance of the cross – that is to say, participation in the trials and sorrows of human life in the world. So that He is here within us – not by way of a fall or a mistake, but with rapture and joy.” 

The cross, he says, is not simply a symbol of divinity. It is a true crossing: God fusing with humanity, humanity with the divine.

Somewhere in my adolescence, when I would try to think of God, I found myself locked in Good Friday, in the solitary dark of that sanctuary. What alienates us from God – and I write this still with all my agnostic doubt and cold intellectualism – is that we believe ourselves separate from the world, and from each other. To see ourselves in others reflected, connected by the same animating energy, is to see the God in us.  

Dear Reader, I hope you don’t find this pseudo-profound religious rhapsodizing inappropriate in a blog. But thinking about this soothes my own alienation, so I thank you for bearing with it.

The eastern sky began to lighten as we walked home. Zoryana and I talked about the symbols and rituals of Easter, how they were taken and re-worked from pagan tradition. The penis cake, it turns out, is intentionally phallic – yet another symbol of fertility at this time of bountiful baby animals. Zoryana also told me that many saints are actually pagan gods in disguise, so as to ease over the transition to Christianity. “But as for me,” she said simply, “it is always the same God.”

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

I am inside your mind.

A couple weeks ago, Svitlana told me, “The principal wants to see you. You are going to sing in the Earth Day concert.” Note that this was not a request. Oleg Volodimirovych, it seems, has become very excited about The Phantom of the Opera, so he and I and a few other teachers have spent long hours rehearsing the title song, along to a computerized techno beat and a dapper old gentleman at the accordion.

Having this song perpetually stuck in my head has provided a fitting soundtrack to my frequent surly, brooding state. I wondered whether I could incorporate this into my classes by progressively becoming more and more phantom-like. First I would wear a cape, then mask, eventually holding classes in the school basement, where I would terrifying my dreadful little ninth formers by spookily singing past perfect continuous verbs at a belching organ.

At yesterday’s concert, we sang decently well. At least my hair looked GREAT. I can afford myself this vanity because, in keeping with my interest in medievalism, I now bathe about as frequently as actual medieval folk. Now after a few weeks without running water, I am back in modern times, and my curls are so, so pretty. Seriously, like those dolls with blinky eyes, except not in a creepy way.

Anyway, the Phantom piece was somehow tied into the Earth Day theme -- through interpretive dance. A teenaged girl, dressed in black hooded Death-cape and white mask, stalked forebodingly around the stage, breaking flowers in half. I would say that it was the most horrifying thing I have ever seen, except that another act involved the ninth form boys in clown costumes. Now I know what my next being-chased-by-rapists dream is going to be about.

On a more gentle note, I also led my beloved, adorable sixth formers in singing, “I’d Like to Teach the World to Sing.” They held up stuffed animals and flowers as they sang enthusiastically off-key. That was pretty much what I’d always pictured Peace Corps would be like. 

Spring is making me sentimental, drowsily romantic. The forest has become an Arden. It’s completely blanketed with purple bell flowers, dotted with blues and yellows, wafting a warm, delicate smell. I want to fall into them reciting Keats drunkenly. A couple cows graze at the forest’s entrance. They surprised me at first (to be honest, I had a brief, insane thought that they would charge me and bite me with rabid maws), but I watched and thought them noble cows. I have never thought cows could look dignified, but these – how the late light outlined their heavy, sleek flanks, their frank bodiliness – were even as the kine of Helios. 

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Not rabid

Treasures I have accumulated:

Harmonica, small enough for a pocket, which I can whip out on walks to school. It is comforting to hear sounds made by myself. I played it on a wet morning last week when blue mist was rising from fields. I watched a far-off woman sowing seed. She could have been in any century, over the waves of wet soil.

Cowrie shell (from sidewalk).

Used book of Oscar Wilde selections that my friend Angela gave me: fin de siècle design of leaves inked across the covers, satisfyingly black.

Yellow-and-green dotted pysanka egg from my tutoring student Alina.

A caramel in gold wrapper, handed to me by a small boy, black-fingernailed, grinning with teeth slightly caved-in. He asked, “What is your favorite toy?” (An elephant named Filfy.)

... 

Currently am in the Peace Corps office in Kiev where I’ve received the first of my rabies shots. Am disappointed not to become a werewolf. Last week a couple dogs were playing across the road, and then suddenly became SO barky and angry. One grabbed my ankle in his voracious jaws. There was only a little blood. I limped away, the dog still snapping. (See: Earlier entry for my cartoon drawing representing myself and the Страшна сабака, scary dog. That is a good illustration of my emotional state at the time.)

I am pretty sure Ukraine is trying to kill me.

However, Dr. Yuri, the dashingly weathered yet boyish-faced Peace Corps doctor, has come to my rescue with vaccines. He told me about all the animals he saw when working in African rainforests. Once, an ELEPHANT charged at his group. They all ran in different directions, waited twenty minutes, and when they tried to return down the path, the elephant was still waiting for them. The moral of the story is: You can not stop animals from attacking you, because they are not only angry, but sneaky.  

Monday, March 28, 2011

Of beauty, iconography, and why everyone must feel sorry for me: Lviv, 3

Remembering Hecht’s “Venetian Vespers,” I am desperate for more. This section from his poem “Peripeteia” feels much in harmony with my current mind. In the silence before a play begins, he writes –

“Whether we like it or not, we are a crowd,
Foul-breathed, gum-chewing, fat with arrogance,
Passion, opinion, and appetite for blood.
But in that instant, which the mind protracts,
From dim to dark before the curtain rises,
Each of us is miraculously alone
In calm, invulnerable isolation,
Neither a neighbor nor a fellow but,
As at the beginning and end, a single soul,
With all the sweet and sour of loneliness.
I, as a connoisseur of loneliness,
Savor it richly, and set it down
In an endless umber landscape, a stubble field
Under a lilac, electric, storm-flushed sky,
Where, in companionship with worthless stones,
Mica-flecked, or at best some rusty quartz,
I stood in childhood, waiting for things to mend.
A useful discipline, perhaps. One that might lead
To solitary, self-denying work
That issues in something harmless, like a poem,
Governed by laws that stand for other laws,
Both of which aim, through kindred disciplines,
At the soul’s knowledge and habiliment.”  

…

I hardly know how to trust beauty anymore. This is the skepticism, possibly, of my generation, or of Americans generally? – some democratizing self-righteousness that attributes beauty to the uselessly ornate and frilly, to the “inaccessible,” or markers of class. I thought of this padding around Lviv’s history museum, in felt booties on the parquet floors. All Baroque excess: chandeliers reflecting light in crystal facets, in gold-framed mirrors; a chair shaped like a dragon, with its spine curving seductively to fit the seated person’s; the impassive, pale blue gaze of lily-skinned Polish gentry, ladies emerging from their gowns like Venus from foam. Beautiful uselessness.

To dismiss it, I know, would be some obvious pot-calling-the-kettle-blackery; poetry being that which “makes nothing happen.” But there must be beauty beyond mere things. More than an opiate. That which fires the blood.

And maybe (while I hate to step down from my self-constructed tower of snobbery) it must be slightly crude. The icons in Lviv, from about the 11th to 16th centuries in present-day Ukraine and Poland, were almost cartoonish in their simplicity. Flat space, arches and domes folded accordion-like together. Saints in bright pinks, oranges, tied to the rack. Infant Christs wrapped in gold, their brows hugely protuberant and mouths old-man-like, pursed and lined. In their starkness, the lack of realism, they at times allowed something else to come through those long faces. That something, or what struck me as possibly being so, was not divinity but humanness. In their huge, close-set eyes, deep brown beneath lined foreheads, there was gentleness, and quiet sorrow.

…

On the tram to the railway station, my way home from the city, the crowd of passengers crammed so tightly together I could not move. Struggling to pass my single hrevna bill up to the driver, I couldn’t manage to get my shoulder bag in front of me. By the time the crowd thinned out, a woman pointed to the bag – a large hole was cut out of its bottom, dropping coins and Chapstick everywhere. I tore through my things in horror, but it was too late. My wallet and camera were gone.

I must have looked a pathetic sight: choking back tears, clutching my destroyed bag as I tottered around the swerving tram. Just before we stopped at the station, a conductor made her rounds to check our tickets. Mine, I had been too distracted to punch correctly. She demanded the fine, 20 hreven. I tried to explain what had happened, that I was foreign and had been robbed, but her voice stayed flat and stern – 20 hreven. Finally I burst into furious tears, waved around a few crumpled bills from my pocket, and screamed, “Here! I have three hrevny! Do you want them?!” and ran off the tram (or I should say, to complete the picture, limped, because I'd somehow messed up my foot hopping around cobblestones).

On the train home, after I had finally gotten in touch with Peace Corps and my bank, I found out the bandit had withdrawn all the money from my Ukrainian account. All the money I’ve saved from working the past few months while spending as little as possible, living off root vegetables and rice, for nothing.

A young man across from me – a toothy, simpering thing – kept inviting me to drink beer with his friend. I declined and pulled my hoodie over my face, feigning sleep like possums. When night came I stayed up a long time. Restless, rancorous, hot in stiff sheets. The moon bobbed beside me, over the dark stretches of farm, the sudden yellow windows. Once a small river appeared and the moon streaked it, milkily.

“I, as a connoisseur of loneliness.” It must bear itself out into something of value.